Diving the MS Zenobia by Andy Pearce

MS Zenobia was a Swedish-built Challenger-class RO-RO ferry launched in 1979 that capsized
and sank on her maiden voyage in 1980. Quite simply, it’s a massive wreck lying on her port side
with depths ranging from 14m to 42m.

I meet with Chris Martin of Alpha Divers and after a discussion, we agreed on 5 dives over 2
days, 4 on the ‘Zen’. What was nice about this ‘discussion’ is that I didn’t need to complete a
check-out dive!
We loaded the kit onto his truck and made our way to the marina arriving shortly before 9am.
Chris has a very nice hard boat which is only for his customers – all 6 of us on this day including
the guides! Only downside, there’s no lift….

After a short brief on the diving, we kitted up and jumped in. As we descended the shot line and
with 27 degrees water temperature, it became very apparent the ‘Zen’ is big! We dropped our
deco tanks off in the lifeboat, which was guarded by Lion fish and made our way to the stern at
42m. Swimming under the props and around the loading ramps you begin to appreciate how
great the visibility is – at least 30m. We headed back towards the mid-section of the wreck
accompanied by number of large, friendly black groupers! The guide lead us through the bridge,
where we you can still see the jumbled instruments, down the stairs and through to the cafeteria!
Its not for the feint hearted and its worth mentioning here that the thermoclines are very distinct
in their layers and change of temperature!
Back outside, we made our way back to the lifeboat, collected our deco cylinders, minding the
Lion fish, and completed the dive.
The beginning of the second dive was the same as the first dive but this time we made for the
starboard side pilots hatch and entered one of the ‘Zen’s’ cargo decks! After a little squeeze, you
enter a cavernous hall with lorries still chained to the deck but hanging in mid water! This place is
HUGE! There was so much to see.
During the first dive inside, I only saw what was directly in front of me – lorries, some articulated
– some not, a cement mixer, a forklift truck, piles of wood, tarps, more lorries hanging and a
great jumble of everything including military sleeping bags! During the next 3 dives, I was able to
pick out more details; registration plates of some of the vehicles, the captain’s Lada being most
memorable as that car is no longer made by a country that no longer exists. It even has a red
velvet like covering on the steering wheel!
Each dive took a different route, sometimes through a huge space, sometimes only room for a
single diver on a twinset to pass through. There is even an air pocket which we entered to have a
chat! (Removal of your regulator is at your own risk!).
These dives are the memorable dives that stand head and shoulders above all others. There’s a
combination of heady excitement, raw exhilaration and ‘storey’ telling about each one.
4 dives are not enough to appreciate the wreck. There are some twelve routes through the ‘Zen’
depending on your level of adventure. If I was to return to the ‘Zen’, I might ask for more specific routes…..
Andy Pearce